Guide to Traveling the Amalfi Coast
What a piece of heaven!!
First off- I would NOT recommend driving anywhere in the Amalfi coast.
It’s only one road and it’s VERY VERY narrow. I heard about this but didn’t believe how small it really was. I highly suggest you get a private driver - it’s well worth the money. If you can avoid the summer months like JUNE I would- it’s overly populated and super Hot!!
Since we're talking about the weather: It’s very common for you to wake up and have it be cloudy (it’s the marine layer but it will burn off around 12 and the sun will come out!
The easiest way to get to Amalfi is via Naples airport you can either get a taxi, train or ferry to any of the places in Amalfi coast. This destination is more of a lay on the beach, rent a boat, drink wine, spritz and champagne, over eat good italian food, and repeat.
I visited Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Ravello and Capri - which I'm excited to divulge about each below, BUT I think my favorite part of Amalfi was Capri though for those asking so I’ll start with this one first.
Capri
It's so picturesque with pastel colors everywhere. It's an absolute must to take a boat tour around the island and also go in the blue grotto- it's a fun experience!
Also there are 2 “sides” to the island:
Capri, the main town where most of the hotels and restaurants are, and Anacapri.
Anacapri is actually the top of the island. There are some cute shops and restaurants up there. Also Lemon Spritz are a MUST. during the day its really busy from all the tourist coming in from the cruises and just to check it out but it really becomes magical when they all leave and its much calmer. Ideal to stay over! I personally missed this since it closed 2 days earlier but I was DYING to go to the beach club Fontelina- its suppose to be “heaven on earth”. You have to make a reservation but put it on the list. Its a reason for me to come back!
Restaurants:
De Paolino: A total MUST while in capri. It's a lemon orchard turned family owned restaurant. Their tagline is 'Dining under a sky of Lemons'. Of couse, theirs is the best Lemoncello in all of Capri. Oh, and you must have the lemon ravioli- so good!
Giorgio al Cucciolo: This is a classic place. This restaurant is located in Anacapri, on the top of the island, and requires special transportation. Be sure to make an advance reservation. Amazing panoramic views and gorgeous sunset. They also have live music a plus!
Buonocore: Hands Down, the BEST gelato I’ve ever had. Because they make their cones fresh on the spot, the entire road smells like a bakery. It's heavenly. You'll find yourself unable to resist a gelato each time you pass by. Don't resist.
Da Gelsomina: Food comes from their gardens and wine from their vineyards. Known for their ravioli capresi.
Aurora: This is a really fun (and beautiful) place to dine. It's considered a celebrity hot spot and you’ll see photos of all the celebrities on the wall as you're eating.
J K KITCHEN Restaurant & Lounge Bar: A charming restaurant that serves traditional Mediterranean cuisine, with its large panoramic terrace (uh, hello mesmerizing views).
Best Hotels:
J.K. Place Capri- a dazzling white villa on the cliffs above Marina Grande on the island of Capri. The hotel is set in manicured gardens with astounding views over the Bay of Naples.
The Capri Palace Located in Anacapri, the most exclusive and unspoiled part of Italy’s island of Capri, it stands way above sea level, overlooking the open Mediterranean Sea and the Gulf of Naples.
Quisisana Hotel- The traditional Italian decor and architecture is breathtaking. located right in the heart of Capri, just steps of the Piazzetta.
Caesar Augustus- Perched on the cliff edge, a thousand feet above the sea surrounding Capri, it was originally built in the 1850s as the private residence of a wealthy German businessman and now is one of italy’s finest luxury hotels.
Sorrento
This is a very central place in Amalfi and isn’t as common as the other towns although its bigger and has a lot more shopping than the others. They are known for leather sandals, leathers, limoncello, endless streets to get lost in.
I felt it wasn’t as expensive as the others as well. Since it has a ferry port to all the other locations, tourists will just stay here and do day trips to the other places. Also the train goes straight to Naples from here and also Pompeii for a day trip! The hotels weren’t spectacular but it was just fine!
Side note: Day trip to Pompeii- I was so surprised by how much I enjoyed this. Old roman town that was ruined by volcanic and still stands. Did a walking tour 2 hours 14 euro and 13 euro to get in. About 20 min train ride from Sorrento and 2 Euros each way. Be warned, all school kids travel on this train, so getting a driver is ideal to avoid the influx of children heading to and from school.
Restaurants:
Terrazza Bosquet at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento: It’s One Michelin star and gorgeous views of the Bay of Naples.
Antico Franceschiello: It is one of the few Historical Restaurants in Italy. It boasts 100 years of experience. You'll enjoy a warm ambience, and breathtaking views on Capri. It proposes a genuine and delicious menu with a particular attention to high quality products.
O’ Parrucchiano: A traditional restaurant "The Museum of Hospitality" open since 1868. It's located in the historical centre of Sorrento, just a few steps from the Cathedral.
L’Antico Frantoio: It offers a rustic and airy ambiance with a wonderful terrace overlooking the Gulf of Naples and Sorrento. It offers a typical local cuisine: Seafood combined with genuine local products and it will be the right place to taste a good pizza as well.
Hotels:
La Favorita: Experience a charmingly older feel with ceramic floors but still a great hotel. Breakfast was wonderful with a delish omelet station. The Sax bar upstairs us a highlight and it's in a location in the heart of Sorrento.
The Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria: This is a family-friendly luxury destination resort located in the town centre of Sorrento. The building is secluded from the main square by private gardens with citrus groves.
Bellevue Syrene: You'll love this romantic, luxury hotel perched on a cliff in Sorrento.
Positano
This is the place that comes to mind when you think of the Amalfi coast: The architectural buildings and homes built all the way into the hills and the landscape just filled with beautiful colors.
Arriving up to it on a boat, its beauty took my breath away. It's much smaller than I thought it would be and it's filled with STEEP hills (bring your walking shoes). Commonly unknown is there is an entire other side you need to see. Explore behind the Puppeto Hotel and follow the steps for a much more calm vibe.
Another highlight is going to Le Sirenuse Hotel. Even if you're not staying there you have to go sip cocktails, its pure Italian glamour here and the views are THE views! I really enjoyed the live DJ and the great drinks. The beaches in front with the fun and colorful umbrellas really are a fun sight too! You need a whole day just to relax under the umbrellas!
If you have the time my personal highlight in Positano was a 15min drive away to Praiano which is a smaller version of Positano and that's where you'll find Casa Angelina. It's super modern as discussed below but it's a must for drinks or lunch if you're not staying there. If you want some great nightlife try out On The Rocks, its a club built into the rocks but it's a late night grotto club when it gets busy!
Restaurants:
Le Sireneuse: Absolutely amazing views, amazing drinks, enough said.
Rada: Modern Italian, with gourmet cooking and great ambiance. You'll find this restaurant above the nightclub built into the rocks.
Chez Black: Positano’s first and oldest restaurants, very classic. . It’s one of those iconic places on the beach that you must try. Try the seafood!
Da Adolfo: A place you simply must go for lunch. You can take a boat from the Positano dock for added fun!
La Cambusa: Great Seafood, add to your list!
Hotels:
Le Sireneuse: located in the heart of Positano. All the rooms are full of light and decorated with a combination of antique and contemporary furniture, contrasting cool whitewashed walls. The floors are covered with colourful tiles from Vietri. Most rooms have a balcony or terrace overlooking the azure sea where at night the gentle sound of waves can be heard.
Casa Angelina- Chic and secluded boutique hotel that is more of a lifestyle.Cut into the Amalfi coastline in charming Praiano. With a clean, refreshing aesthetic and touches of refined Italian elegance, tranquillity is the theme at this cliff-side boutique hotel. It has its own beach club just nearby and its away from the crowds.
lI San Pietro: The most high end and most classic Italian hotel in ALL of Italy, but a very pretty price tag and the majority of the time you need to book out a year in advance (especially in the summer months). It overlooks the bay of Positano, surrounded by scented gardens
Amalfi
I honestly expected so much more from Amalfi, I don’t know if it's because it was one of the last stops on my list and maybe everything seemed to blend together? I'm can't put my finger on it, though maybe it is because it is on the smaller side-you can see the entire town just by going on a 1 hour walk! I just thought this town would be the best so I expected much more. It's still fantastic, I just enjoyed the other towns much more.
Restaurants:
Gran Caffè offers a light lunch menu and lovely views
Trattoria Da Maria: Great Pizza!
Hotels:
Santa Caterina- I stayed here and thought it was wonderful! Just outside Amalfi proper and a 3min shuttle ride in. The pool is made right into the rocks and was just SO cool that you could jump right into the ocean from it as well.
Ravello
This place was adorable! People had always told me to go here, so of course it was on my list. I just so happened to go on a beautiful day and was wearing a sundress. The weather took a turn and on the way up about 20 minutes from Amalfi the sky got cloudy and it NO JOKE starting hailing and was freezing cold. I had no sweater or anything!
As soon as I arrived I walked into a little shop and bought a beautiful cashmere sweater! But the shops and little coffee shops are so cute! Totally worth a trip up there and if you want to escape the crowds and get in some relaxation stay up there!
Restaurants:
Belvedere Restaurant at Belmond is great
Rossellini’s at Palazzo Avino- Fancy spot everyone should try!
Hotels:
Belmond Hotel Caruso- Set into the cliff edge, around 350m above sea level over tiered groves of lemons and olive vines, it’s your private balcony over the Mediterranean. The infinity pool and pool area is pure relaxation and stunning with the views.
My favorite photos from my experience on the Amalfi Coast: